Mt Kinabalu - Take 2! Part 2 - The first day
The trek began with the pickup from the accommodation at Kota Kinabalu at 6.15 am. It took about 2 hours to reach Kinabalu Park which was where we did our registration and met the guide. We were then transferred by van to the starting point and that's when we started our accent via Timpohon Gate at around 9.15 am. About 300m into the trek, you would see a waterfall to your left, the first of many majestic sights. A steady pace must be kept. Keeping intensity to nasal breathing, the heart rate zone should never reach the red zone if not pace would not be sustainable. At each hut, we took 5 mins of break, hydrating and replacing calories with snacks that were brought. Keeping to the pace, without rushing, you get to enjoy the surroundings on your own time. At 11.30 am, we reached the Layang Layang hut which was also our lunch stop. Lunch provided included roasted vegetables and a huge portion of grilled chicken. Other trekkers had chicken curry served in a plastic bag. Note to self: do not bring curry up the mountains. There were a few curry tragedies observed where the plastic bag broke and they had to manage the disaster of curry-stained bags and everything the bag contained. Fortunately, every rest stop had toilets with running water so they could clean up. Unwarranted stress would be eliminated with better culinary planning. Yes, you heard me, toilets at every stop. A luxury that not many treks and boast about. Typically, you had to find a private spot and perform your business in nature just like our ancestors did before modernization but not on this Mt Kinabalu trek. Perhaps that is why the price of the 2d1n trek is so high (2280RM per pax).
After lunch, we soldiered on feeling recharged from the 45 mins break. The higher we went, the air felt thinner, the temperature cooler and the vegetation changed from more tropical plants to temperate plants. Dryer more bonsai looking plants were seen and the chirps of birds became less. A sense of peace and calm filled the thin air. As we approached Panalaban, the rest stop where we would stay the night, it became foggy and then it came to my realisation that it wasn't fog but clouds. We are that high that we are literally in the clouds. The term on cloud nine was no longer a figurative term but a literal one. The elation and happiness you get from this elevation is one of the many reasons why I love mountains. You would have to experience it to understand it.
At 2.30 pm, we reached Laban Rata-, the lodge on Panalaban where we were to stay the evening. A total of about 5 hours of climbing for the first stage of the climb. Dinner would start at 4.30 pm and we had 2 hours to rest. We stayed in a dorm with another couple, some dorms had up to 8 pairs. The toilets were on the same level and there were showers for those who wished to have an icy cold shower. Having experienced other multi-day hikes, one day of not showering was well worth not getting hypothermia. At this point, the temperature has dropped to the teens. There was a shop selling snacks, soft drinks, mineral water, and postcards. There was also a post box (highest in Malaysia) and a post office selling stamps at Pendant Hut. It costs 2RM to send a postcard to Singapore. Even though they didn't allow you to fill your bottles at the restaurant at Laban Rata, water dispensers are dispensing both hot and cold water outside some of the lodges so you don't have to feel obliged to purchase mineral water at the shop which is neither eco-friendly nor economical.
Dinner started sharp at 4.30 pm buffet style. Carbohydrates dominated the spread with rice, noodles, and pasta. There was also chicken and stir-fried vegetables for a balanced meal along with my favorite: hot pumpkin soup and a warm sweet bobo chacha-like dessert. We were reminded that supper would commence at 1.30 am before we set off for the summit climb at 2.30 am. Adjourning back to the room after dinner to catch some sleep. At around 8 pm, it started to rain cats and dogs. All I can hope for is for the rain to stop so that we can still climb. If the rain was too heavy, climbing to the summit would be disallowed. The room was pitch black and before I knew it I was fast asleep. They provided bed sheets, a blanket, 2 pillows and the room at Laban Rata felt very insulated. I could sleep soundly with only my base layer on. It was the best sleep I had in the mountains. In previous treks, it was either too cold or too uncomfortable to have a good night’s sleep and that was by far the best.
Stay tuned for the final part in the next blog.
